Cuttack

Peninsular India29 photographs2007

Cuttack sits at the apex of the Mahanadi Delta and about 15 miles north of Bhubaneshwar—twice that from Puri. The city is almost confined to a narrow peninsula, which makes the location less than ideal for expansion. Solution: in 1948 the capital of Orissa was moved from Cuttack to the new town of Bhubaneshwar.

Back in the days when Orissa and Bihar were a single province, Cuttack was the seat of the circuit court of the Patna High Court. From 1930,

Back in the days when Orissa and Bihar were a single province, Cuttack was the seat of the circuit court of the Patna High Court. From 1930, when Orissa became a province in its own right, the circuit court became and remains the state's High Court.

Interior hall.

Interior hall.

From a subordinate building.

From a subordinate building.

It's early; the office hasn't opened yet.

It's early; the office hasn't opened yet.

The judge's car, a fine old Ambassador.

The judge's car, a fine old Ambassador.

Corridor. The nizarat is the administrative office of the court.

Corridor. The nizarat is the administrative office of the court.

A still more minor court, for traffic offenses.

A still more minor court, for traffic offenses.

It's in this building. Everything seems a bit shabby, no?

It's in this building. Everything seems a bit shabby, no?

Another Raj relic.

Another Raj relic.

The sign says "Old Medical Ward," but the building has a much longer history than that. It sits on the site of the Lalbagh Palace and was oc

The sign says "Old Medical Ward," but the building has a much longer history than that. It sits on the site of the Lalbagh Palace and was occupied for decades by British officers, including (after 1930) the Governor of Orissa.

It's a busy place, now functioning as a hospital and postgraduate institute of pediatrics.

It's a busy place, now functioning as a hospital and postgraduate institute of pediatrics.

We've come around to the back side of the hospital, which has this large circular bay whose view is now blocked by the main road.

We've come around to the back side of the hospital, which has this large circular bay whose view is now blocked by the main road.

It's a nursery, full of cribs.

It's a nursery, full of cribs.

Across the road, the mostly dry Kathjuri River, the right-branch of the Mahanadi.

Across the road, the mostly dry Kathjuri River, the right-branch of the Mahanadi.

On the other side of the peninsula, and facing the left branch of the Mahanadi, the old Church of St. Michael and All the Angels is locked t

On the other side of the peninsula, and facing the left branch of the Mahanadi, the old Church of St. Michael and All the Angels is locked tight.

The Cuttack Baptist church.

The Cuttack Baptist church.

Christ Collegiate School.

Christ Collegiate School.

In the hallway, a photo worth a thousand words.

In the hallway, a photo worth a thousand words.

A local wedding hall.

A local wedding hall.

On the wall, another picture worth a thousand words. Think she knew how to give orders?

On the wall, another picture worth a thousand words. Think she knew how to give orders?

A later generation, not quite so toughened-up.

A later generation, not quite so toughened-up.

And still later, Nandini Satpathy, a Communist-turned-Congress firebrand, long-serving member of the Orissa legislature, and twice chief min

And still later, Nandini Satpathy, a Communist-turned-Congress firebrand, long-serving member of the Orissa legislature, and twice chief minister of the state. She died at Bhubaneshwar in 2006.

Cornerstone.

Cornerstone.

Back in town: an old mansion.

Back in town: an old mansion.

More typical buildings.

More typical buildings.

Streetside business: bicycle repair.

Streetside business: bicycle repair.

The city's Balu Bazaar is famous for silver filigree.

The city's Balu Bazaar is famous for silver filigree.

Newer technologies have arrived.

Newer technologies have arrived.

Newer dreams, too.

Newer dreams, too.