Mekong Below Houayxay

Laos18 photographs2000

We're setting out on a day-long speedboat run down the river from Houayxay to Luang Prabang.

Early morning fog on the river.

Early morning fog on the river.

It thickens.

It thickens.

As the day warms, the fog burns off.

As the day warms, the fog burns off.

The vista opens.

The vista opens.

The banks are rocky, with occasional islands and promontories. In the course of a day, perhaps half a dozen riverboats pass by, along with a

The banks are rocky, with occasional islands and promontories. In the course of a day, perhaps half a dozen riverboats pass by, along with a couple of dozen speedboats, their unmuffled automobile engines roaring.

With the sky clear at last, the water's silt load is illuminated.

With the sky clear at last, the water's silt load is illuminated.

A mandatory stop for checking papers. This is January, and the police post moves during summer's high water.

A mandatory stop for checking papers. This is January, and the police post moves during summer's high water.

There's a village here: Muang Paktha.

There's a village here: Muang Paktha.

Pretty basic.

Pretty basic.

Back on the river: rippling sedimentary layers.

Back on the river: rippling sedimentary layers.

A stop at a bigger place, catering to river traffic.

A stop at a bigger place, catering to river traffic.

View from the river. The building is a restaurant; the village of Pakbeng lies just beyond.

View from the river. The building is a restaurant; the village of Pakbeng lies just beyond.

Main Street.

Main Street.

Off again and passing a beach where logs are waiting to be taken downstream.

Off again and passing a beach where logs are waiting to be taken downstream.

More patches of rocky banks.

More patches of rocky banks.

More logs and speedboats.

More logs and speedboats.

How did the logs get to the river? Here's your answer.

How did the logs get to the river? Here's your answer.

Judging from the elephant's lean into the harness, the resistance must be considerable.

Judging from the elephant's lean into the harness, the resistance must be considerable.