Santubong: Down River from Kuching

Malaysia17 photographs2009

We're headed north to the coast, an hour's drive north or down-river from Kuching. Any idea what to expect?

The Santubong River, a distributary of the Sarawak, breasts its way past Santubong Mountain, to whose far slope we're headed.

The Santubong River, a distributary of the Sarawak, breasts its way past Santubong Mountain, to whose far slope we're headed.

A boat heads out to sea.

A boat heads out to sea.

The boat came from a village called Santubong.

The boat came from a village called Santubong.

The village accommodates the tide.

The village accommodates the tide.

Some houses have lots of elbow room.

Some houses have lots of elbow room.

One way or another, almost everyone is ready for rising water.

One way or another, almost everyone is ready for rising water.

Here's an exception: some villagers on higher land are free to indulge their inner gardener.

Here's an exception: some villagers on higher land are free to indulge their inner gardener.

A cemetery is also put on land that generally stays above the water, but the homeowners behind it aren't taking any chances.

A cemetery is also put on land that generally stays above the water, but the homeowners behind it aren't taking any chances.

The village's commercial center.

The village's commercial center.

Interior of the store.

Interior of the store.

Clinic.

Clinic.

A mile down the road, the sandy beachfront belongs to someone with money.

A mile down the road, the sandy beachfront belongs to someone with money.

Don't want the hassles of a beach-front home? No problem.

Don't want the hassles of a beach-front home? No problem.

Targeting locals, not.

Targeting locals, not.

What have we here?

What have we here?

You'd be forgiven for guessing a gated community, but it's just a hotel, with security.

You'd be forgiven for guessing a gated community, but it's just a hotel, with security.

So here you have it, the tropical beach of international tourist brochures. It's barely on the same planet as Santubong.

So here you have it, the tropical beach of international tourist brochures. It's barely on the same planet as Santubong.