Aden

Yemen34 photographs2007

Back in the days when Europeans went by sea to India and points beyond, Aden was busy. Not today, although the airport receives a surprising amount of traffic not only domestically but from Amman and Dubai, Cairo, Nairobi, Djibouti, and Mogadishu.

The coast still sees lots of small boats to and from the Emirates.

The coast still sees lots of small boats to and from the Emirates.

Small-boat harbor.

Small-boat harbor.

The same corner from farther back. The building in the distance is—so much for the exotic—a shopping center.

The same corner from farther back. The building in the distance is—so much for the exotic—a shopping center.

Aden has two parts separated by a volcano. Within the volcano is the old part of town appropriately called Crater. This, on the other hand,

Aden has two parts separated by a volcano. Within the volcano is the old part of town appropriately called Crater. This, on the other hand, is the newer part of town, the location of the modern harbor—and where the U.S.S. Cole came to anchor.

Looking from this newer part of town over toward the mountain within which lies Crater, of which more soon.

Looking from this newer part of town over toward the mountain within which lies Crater, of which more soon.

Nobody's idea of scenic, but not as run down as you might expect.

Nobody's idea of scenic, but not as run down as you might expect.

Well, what did every Victorian town need, first and foremost?

Well, what did every Victorian town need, first and foremost?

It needed a park, too. Can you make out that object in the trees on the left? It's a dark mass atop a light-colored base.

It needed a park, too. Can you make out that object in the trees on the left? It's a dark mass atop a light-colored base.

Ever she sits, apple in hand.

Ever she sits, apple in hand.

If you really hanker for Empire, you have to head this way.

If you really hanker for Empire, you have to head this way.

It's close to the old passenger dock.

It's close to the old passenger dock.

Last decorated in 1950-something.

Last decorated in 1950-something.

Playing by the clocktower.

Playing by the clocktower.

The patch of grass is a surprising touch, but we're going to jump over the mountain to see something even more startling—probably the most e

The patch of grass is a surprising touch, but we're going to jump over the mountain to see something even more startling—probably the most exotic thing in the city.

Here's an explanatory note.

Here's an explanatory note.

And here's the approach path.

And here's the approach path.

Looks like a tomb of some sort, but it isn't.

Looks like a tomb of some sort, but it isn't.

Behind the arch, a stepped tank to capture runoff from the occasional storm—increasingly occasional these days.

Behind the arch, a stepped tank to capture runoff from the occasional storm—increasingly occasional these days.

The water is held up by a series of weirs.

The water is held up by a series of weirs.

Follow them upstream and you arrive at impassible ravines.

Follow them upstream and you arrive at impassible ravines.

It's like a water park. Just without water for the last several years.

It's like a water park. Just without water for the last several years.

Some of the tanks are deep.

Some of the tanks are deep.

The interconnections seem like something by Escher.

The interconnections seem like something by Escher.

Water must once have splashed over these sills.

Water must once have splashed over these sills.

And down several pathways.

And down several pathways.

The sultan's palace, now the archaeological museum.

The sultan's palace, now the archaeological museum.

The Al-Aidrus mosque and tombs.

The Al-Aidrus mosque and tombs.

Entrance.

Entrance.

Interior.

Interior.

In case you thought that the city's Victorian buildings had bitten the dust: not a chance.

In case you thought that the city's Victorian buildings had bitten the dust: not a chance.

Verandas for a hint of breeze.

Verandas for a hint of breeze.

Deco, late in the colonial day.

Deco, late in the colonial day.

Another example.

Another example.

Post-colonial progress: the same shopping center seen from a distance in the first photo in this folder.

Post-colonial progress: the same shopping center seen from a distance in the first photo in this folder.